Story and photos by Dave O. Dodge, Jan. 29, 2015.
Temple of the Seven Dolls on the outskirts of Mérida.
If you are a lover of House Hunters International, then you already know about the charm and elegance that’s made the historic city of Mérida so popular.
Though this city is the capital of the state of Yucatán, Mexico, it has often been overlooked by travelers in favor of its neighboring hot spot, Cancun. But, historic Mérida is the polar opposite of the all-inclusive “hotel zone” and tourist scene that sits just 190 miles to the east (on the Caribbean side of the peninsula).
Mérida, a Spanish colonial city that was founded in 1542, is considered the oldest continuously inhabited city in all of North, South and Central America.
Located on the northwest part the state, about 25 miles inland from the calming waters of the Gulf of Mexico, this destination is on most travel connoisseurs’ top-10 list.
The entire city is like a symphony of sights and culture, each playing a part in a well-orchestrated performance with a cast of locals and foreigners that are gay, straight, young and old.
Seeing La Ciudad
Somewhere along the line Mérida acquired the nicknamed “The White City” (La Ciudad Blanca), which could be for the prominent use of the color on many of its historic buildings and homes or, more importantly, for being clean. In fact, Méridians pride themselves on the cleanliness of this city.
With just under a million residents, 60 percent of which are indigenous Mayans, Mérida is the largest city of the Yucatán Peninsula and is also is considered the country’s safest city. Because of its isolation from the rest of the country, though, the culture here is much different than most travelers’ idea of Mexico.
Visiting Mérida is like taking a step back in time, complete with a history lesson. Upon their arrival, the Spanish conquistadors were in search of gold and other natural resources, but found an entire civilization with its own language, temples, rituals and calendar.
Today, Mérida is all about, art, cuisine, tradition and acceptance, which makes it a perfect destination for the gays.
A History Lesson
Flamingos along the estuary in Celestún.
The city’s key historic neighborhood, known as Centro, is the third-largest concentration of colonial architecture next to Mexico City and Havana. At the Zócalo (officially Plaza de la Independencia), visitors will find many points of interest within the perfectly square tree-lined park that serves as the cultural heart of this vibrant city.
Here you can indulge your senses as a constant stream of people passes you by. By day, the street vendors serve up favorite local flavors and by night the cafes and restaurants expand their market share by setting up tables in the streets (once closed) and offer el-fresco dining in the year-round tropical air. As the sun sets and the stars come out, the historic buildings on every corner in the Zocalo light up like a virtual architectural design show.
La Catedral de San Ildefonso is the most prominent structure and can be seen throughout this district. Built by the Spanish with stones taken from the ancient temples of T’ho (also the name of the city that once existed in the building’s current footprint), this place of Catholic worship is an example of Moorish and Renaissance styles that were popular back in Spain in the late 1500s. Visitors are welcome to bask in the massive columns, arch rooflines and ornate details – this building is a must-see.
The Natural Reaction
While the Mexican Mérida is often compared to its Spanish cousin (about 240 miles north of the Iberian Peninsula), the similarities are numbered. Beyond the city itself, Yucatán has many hidden treasures waiting to be discovered.
Here, the Mayan civilization, with countless archeological sites, can be a daunting task to understand – but it’s more than worth your time and effort. Catherwood Travels are based close to downtown and can help the Indiana Jones in you learn the secret rituals of the Mayans and help you understand what you are seeing. Never underestimate the power of a tour guide, because the good ones will seamlessly teach, inspire and have you longing for more.
And, because it’s impossible to not notice the natural beauty of the Yucatán surrounding you, make a point to soak up some sun. Just 20 minutes to the north, quiet beaches of Progreso greet the very relaxing waves of warm gulf waters. A 60-mile drive west will get you to the sleepy fishing village of Celestún, which is home to the largest breeding ground of the American Flamingo. During the winter months upwards of 35,000 flamingos, along with hundreds of other birds, make their home in the mangrove forests along this shallow estuary where natural fresh water springs feed into the salt water creating a diverse habitant.
Business and Pleasure
There is nothing the trendy, educated and fashionable LGBT community member would miss here. The American-inspired stores increasingly rival that of Macy’s and Saks Fifth Avenue, just head to the mall at Plaza Altabrisa or the department store giant, Liverpool, for first-class retail therapy.
After just one visit, many LGBT travelers return home, to calculate how they can make this paradise a permanent home (and many have). The dollar continues to grow stronger, and it goes much further when you are restoring a that’s older than most structures back in the US. And, with a lower cost of living and a high lifestyle standard, retiring to the Yucatán is a very popular trend as well.
Mérida is an up and coming destination for the experienced traveler in search of the perfect blend of luxury, authenticity and culture. Mo matter what brings you to this region of Mexico – the Mayan Ruins, a cruise ship that docks for just a day or even a gay wedding – you’ll be glad your travels led you here.
Get a Room
Before I travel anywhere I like to check out my options for gay-owned and gay-friendly establishments, and Mérida currently has several options (and more coming soon). For details, visit purpleroofs.com and keep in mind that making mention of the site might give you a slight discount, too.
Casa Del Maya Bed & Breakfast (casadelmaya.com) is one of my favorites. The hosts are two charming American guys, Steve and Jordy, and they have been open for just over two years. Their beautifully restored colonial-style home has authentic touches that will inspire your inner Mayan.
Owners Ana and Mariana welcome the LGBT community into their home, Casa Ana (casaana.com), a bed & breakfast that offers a respite from the hustle and bustle of Mérida centro. With only five exquisitely decorated rooms, this is a quiet sanctuary that books up fast. Here, breakfast and dinner are served on the terrace throughout the week.
Ochenta y Dos (facebook.com/ochentaydos) is rumored to be opening this summer and will offer a boutique feel to a luxury urban bed & breakfast. This former city hacienda was built more than 100 years ago and was completely demolished and is being painstakingly rebuilt with smart-home technology. A different twist for the gay traveler.
Out and About
There is so much to do and to see in the city of Mérida and the surrounding countryside. There are deserted beaches less than 40 minutes away and Mayan ruins within the city limits. Still, organized tours and excursions are by far the most rewarding, because they take care of all the driving and the talking.
Dzibilchaltún, a 25-acre Mayan archeological site about 10 miles to the north, was once home to more than 40,000 Mayans. Today there are numerous structures to explore, and if you’re there on the equinox (March 21 or Sept. 21) the sun shines perfectly through the doorway of the Temple of the Seven Dolls – now that’s design. localgringo.com/mexico
Celestún is a tiny fishing village about 60 miles west of Mérida with a big attraction: During fall and winter months the American Flamingo migrates to the mangroves along the estuary where you can hire a boat to float along the watery ways. After a couple hours of bird watching, head to the beach for the best tasting shrimp served under a thatched roof. yucatantoday.com/en/topics/celestun
Cenotes are the result of the giant comet that killed the dinosaurs many moons ago, and these are giant sinkholes in the limestone bedrock that are filled with crystal clear water. There are hundreds of them around the Yucatán and for a small fee (or sometimes free) you can take a dip. yucatansecrets.com/cenotes
Finding the Gaybourhood
Billed as a “non-comprehensive guide to the lavender side of The White City,” gaymerida.com has everything – from drag queens to restaurants – you’ll need to know before you go. Heads up: some of the site’s under construction and looks to be expanding.
Considered the largest gay bar in the city, Blu Namu is a night club/drag show/disco/palace located in a very beautiful neighborhood. This bar attracts the young and fashionable until the wee hours of the morning, primarily because nothing, not even the go-go boys, gets going before 1 a.m.
Pride is part disco and part bar, with a dancer thrown in, at the edge of town. Because there is zero tolerance for drinking and driving here, a taxi is required.
Michael Feinstein
Michael Feinstein has become an iconic singer of the modern era. He has entertained audiences and world leaders alike with his jazz standards. Recently he began working with Liza Minnelli to produce a unique stage show that celebrates her mother, Judy Garland's, 100th birthday.
Mr. Feinstein took time out of his busy schedule to answer some questions and give us some insight into his creative process, the future of jazz, and the production of this one-of-a-kind show.
Why do you feel the classics still resonate today?
One of the things I love about the music that I primarily sing is that the songs transcend the time in which they were created. They truly are timeless in the sense that they still have incredible power and energy in what they convey to audiences. I always compare them to the timelessness of William Shakespeare or Beethoven or Michelangelo in that people don't experience any of those things and say they're old.
They still resonate with the heart and they have a contemporary sensibility because certain fundamental emotions are forever. The songs that I sing are so amazingly crafted that they're malleable and they can be performed and sung and may any different ways. And that's one of the reasons they survive because they're just adaptable.
And that's one of the fun things about it. Every time I sing one of these songs, it feels fresh to me. And I also know that there are maybe people in the audience who've never heard these songs before. So I'm mindful of trying to present them in their best suit. If you will.
Did Judy Garland influence you more when you were a kid or as an adult?
Judy Garland, what an amazing person; incredible performer. As a child, like most of my generation, anyway, I first became aware of Judy Garland in connection with the 'Wizard of Oz.' That movie was shown every year as an annual event on television. And we would always go to my aunt and uncle's house and watch it there because they had a color television. But the true art of Judy Garland was introduced to me later in my life, when I became aware of her many recordings and other films that she made at MGM, and she had two distinct careers. One was the 28 feature films she made at MGM from 1937 until she was unceremoniously fired by them in 1950.
Then there was her adult concert career from 1951 to 1969. In that period, she performed over 1100 concerts and made classic record albums. And that's such a rich period of American culture and also music. And so the show that I'm doing is a true celebration of the extraordinary joy she brought to her and the pathos and the sadness that's conveyed through the way she sang ballots. It's a multimedia celebration with home movies supplied by the family, a rare recording of hers singing acapella. And I accompany her on the piano that I actually discovered of a song no one had ever heard her sing before. So it's a, a rich program."
In your opinion, has jazz fallen by the wayside in contemporary music, or is it just reserved for a more distinguished crowd?
I think jazz falls into the same category as American popular song, the classic American popular song in that it will always survive, it will always have an audience and perhaps it's more specialized today, but it's the kind of music that people discover when they're a little bit older and then it becomes a permanent part of what they listen to.
Are there any modern songwriters who you feel could be as prolific as Mr. Gershwin?
Well, uh, I believe that Bob Dylan is incredibly prolific. There are many other songwriters who have a work ethic that produces a lot of material. Diane Warren, I'm told, writes every single day, The songwriter Michel Legrand composed, well over 200 film scores as he composed every day. So there are probably songwriters who wrote more than Gerwin, but will their songs be heard in a hundred years as widely as George Gershwins? That I don't know the answer to.
Do you think the best songs are written when the world is in turmoil or when it's more at peace?
Music always reflects the time in which it is created. Uh, if you look at the songs of world war II, the were lots of songs of patriotism that were very, um, what's the word --- jingoistic. Things like, 'Johnny get your gun, get your gun, get your gun.' All these songs about fighting for what's right. And those songs have not lived as long as the love songs that were written in that time.
For example, 'White Christmas' was written at a time when the world was just entering the second world war and that song has lived, and the patriotic songs, uh, have not worn well, even though the sentiment is there. They were very much of their time. I think that there is a certain kind of inspiration that comes out of turmoil. A lot of songs written during the American depression have become lasting standards.
Things like "As Time Goes By.' That was later featured in the movie 'Casablanca' and that sort of thing. So I think that good songs can be written in any time, but perhaps there's more, uh, passion conveyed when there are problems in the world,
Does music constantly play in my subconscious?
Absolutely. Yes. Music is always playing in my brain and that doesn't bother me because sometimes it's music. I know, and sometimes it's new music. That's how I, I come up with the idea for a tune. My friend, George Firth, who died a number of years ago was a brilliant librettist. He wrote the book for the Sondheim shows 'Merrily, We Roll Along,' and company. And he once said that anything that you're whistling or humming in your brain is a subconscious window to what one is really thinking about or what they're really feeling.
So if he ever heard anybody humming or whistling, he would say, what are you singing? What are you humming? He wanted to know the title of the song, because that was his armchair psychoanalysis of what that person was, was going through.
What will the audiences be treated to at the Scottsdale show?
Well, it's a centennial tribute to Judy Garland. And as I mentioned previously, it's multimedia with photographs that have never been seen before, this incredible home recording of Judy Garland, which I found in a house that she once lived in behind a fake wall.
It's just a weird story. Uh, so I'll be accompanying her in this song. So it's a world premiere of Judy Garland singing something that nobody's ever heard before. And I also sing a couple of things that were written for her that never saw the light of day.
And then a lot of familiar things. It's a celebration of the best of her MGM years, and then the concert years, the iconic Carnegie Hall show, and it's a very immersive experience, both, visually and emotionally. The audience reaction has been, spectacular, and I'm very grateful. The enormity of trying to pay tribute to someone with a career, as large as Judy Garland's certainly was not easy, but I feel like we've nailed it.
I had a team of people who helped to put it together, notably, Judy Garland's daughter, Liza Minnelli, who executive produced the show and was very much influential in helping to shape what it's about. It celebrates the incredible art that she gave all of us. It doesn't delve into the tragedy because that's the tabloid stuff. But the reason people remember her at all is because of the talent. And so that's what I celebrate.
Thank you.
Show & Venue details:
Valley audience members can join Feinstein for this celebration of Judy Garland at Scottsdale Center for the Performing Arts, 7380 E. 2nd St., Scottsdale, Arizona. There will be two concerts at 3 pm and 7 pm on Sunday, March 20, 2022. Tickets start at $79. For information click here or visit or call 480-499-TKTS (8587).
All guests age 12 and older must provide a negative COVID-19 PCR test, taken within 72 hours of the performance date, along with photo ID, to attend performances. As an alternative, guests may provide proof of full vaccination. Masks are highly encouraged to protect artists, staff and patrons. For full health and safety protocols click here.
- Michael Feinstein to Share Gershwins' Legacy in Song - OutVoices ›
- Michael Feinstein to celebrate Judy Garland at Scottsdale Arts ... ›
Michael Feinstein will commemorate Judy Garland’s life on March 20 at Scottsdale Center for the Performing Arts.
Musical icon Michael Feinstein is coming to Scottsdale, Arizona on Sunday, March 20, 2022. His smooth voice and playlist of American standards will soothe audiences of all ages in this special live performance. Feinstein is known for having worked with George and Ira Gershwin, two of the most prolific songwriters in history.
His appearance in Scottsdale will pay tribute to another of entertainment's most iconic voices: Judy Garland. The actress and singer would have celebrated her 100th birthday this year. Her music still lives on in the hearts of millions.
Concert is Executive Produced by Liza Minnelli
Audiences are invited to join a nostalgic and spectacular musical exploration of Garland’s illustrious career. Executive produced by Liza Minnelli, this performance will be packed with special surprise moments as Feinstein honors Garland’s unparalleled talent and charisma.
This brand-new multimedia show features big screen film clips, never-before-seen photos, rare audio recordings, great music and good humor. Feinstein will lead you on a historical journey through Garland’s amazing life, telling stories he learned from Minnelli — Garland’s daughter — and from the legend’s close friends.
Audiences will be treated to recently discovered and previously unheard musical arrangements while gaining rare insight into the enduring Garland mystique.
“We couldn’t pass up the opportunity to celebrate the iconic Judy Garland on her 100th birthday, especially knowing the authenticity and love that went into this project with her daughter Liza Minnelli as the executive producer,” said Abbey Messmer, programming director at the center. “With the Ambassador of the American Songbook leading this journey, it’s certain that we’ll feel Judy’s spirit when we hear songs like ‘Get Happy’ and ‘Come Rain or Come Shine.’”
Photo courtesy of Michael Feinstein.
The Great American Songbook
Feinstein has built a dazzling career over the last three decades, bringing the music of the Great American Songbook to the world. From his multi-platinum-selling recordings that have earned him five Grammy nominations to his Emmy-nominated PBS television specials, his acclaimed NPR series and concerts spanning the globe.
Feinstein's New Album to Feature Music Icons
His live performances, film and television appearances, and 35 albums — including the upcoming release of “Gershwin Country,” featuring duets with country superstars like Dolly Parton, Brad Paisley, Vince Gill, Lyle Lovett, Alison Krauss and more — have made Feinstein an all-star force in American music.
Valley audience members can join Feinstein for this celebration of Judy Garland at Scottsdale Center for the Performing Arts, 7380 E. 2nd St., Scottsdale, Arizona. There will be two concerts at 3 pm and 7 pm on Sunday, March 20, 2022. Tickets start at $79. For information click here or visit or call 480-499-TKTS (8587).
All guests age 12 and older must provide a negative COVID-19 PCR test, taken within 72 hours of the performance date, along with photo ID, to attend performances. As an alternative, guests may provide proof of full vaccination. Masks are highly encouraged to protect artists, staff and patrons. For full health and safety protocols click here.
I think it’s fair to say we all want that #fitlife, especially with Spring around the corner — as well as Gaypril on the way. Whether it’s pool season yet or not, everyone would choose to look fit over not looking fit, if they could have it with a snap of their fingers. OK, the vast majority of us would.
If you’ve met me, or have been reading my articles, you know that I live, sleep, eat and breathe fitness; it’s my heart and soul. That being said, I’m here to tell you that the concept of “fitness” is oftentimes tragically misunderstood.
Before you get too aggressive with your goal for pool season, let’s dive a bit deeper into what fitness means on the inside versus what it looks like on the outside, and common misconceptions around this concept.
1. Beware of the cultural pitfalls and misleading information around fitness.
Most of the bodies you see in the media are probably not real, they just look very convincing. As a trainer who also moonlights as a photographer and Photoshop wizard, I’m telling you that it is incredibly easy to alter pictures in materially misleading ways. Once you know the tricks of the trade, the imposters are easily spotted. But that’s not what this is about.
The point is: to the untrained eye, it can be devastatingly defeating to see such impossible standards. It seems as though the cultural pressure to look a certain way, to look perfect, has spread all the way from runway models to fitness novices with the help of smartphone apps.
The truth is that we fitness models look that cut, and that lean for only a couple days at a time. That’s it! In many cases, months or even close to a year of training, dieting and programming all go into looking like that for ONE day. Let that sink in for a second. Day to day, I am less cut, less tan and much flatter muscularly than what you see in some of my pictures. That’s just the nature of the beast. So, when you have a bad day on the scale, in the mirror or in any other scenario, remember that we’re all human and that the most legitimate photos you’re comparing yourself against were from someone’s very best day. That should help to keep things in perspective.
2. Most people want the results, without actually doing the work.
Fitness is not six pack abs, it’s not superficial, it is not temporary and it’s not an isolated phase in your life. Further, fitness is not something you do for someone else, do to spite someone else or even to impress someone else.
Fitness is confidence, toughness, dedication, coordination, power, balance, speed, strength (both literally and figuratively) and persistence in the face of all obstacles. This includes control over your attitude, your mood, your sleep, your schedule, your diet and other aspects of your life. This means getting that workout in when you least feel like it.
It’s not easy, and it’s definitely a grind that has good and bad days. You must show up and keep working on the days you’re tired, stressed, rushed, defeated, doubtful, afraid and so on. The days you actually have to overcome something instead of just checking your workout off your to-do list are the days you have the greatest opportunity to really make progress, push your body and see the most improvement.
3. Fitness is really an internal mindset. The external physique is the fringe benefit.
I’ve said this time and time again, and it might sound strange coming from such an aesthetic-focused trainer, but you are not your body. Your body is a tool, it’s a means to an end, to express your internal mindset, belief system, discipline and dedication to your workout program. Your physique will come and go. Your strength will come and go. Your abilities will wax and wane depending on what you’re training for at the time.
The outside will, and should, be always changing, but the inside is what we’re really after here. Good trainers want to train you to believe in yourself when sh*t gets hard. We want to train you to be resilient in the face of injury, obstacles and other setbacks. We want you to set ambitious goals and shoot for the moon because you can get there with smart programming and relentless will (do yourself a favor and ditch the crash diets and the photo editing software).
So, as you make your spring preparations for swimsuit season, try focusing on developing a sterling, unshakeable internal character and the muscles will come along the way, this I promise you.