Competition in wine tourism has increased dramatically in recent years, throughout not just North America but a number of destinations around the world. Sunny and sublimely beautiful Sonoma County, however, continues to hold its own. What has changed a bit in this expansive county is the skyrocketing popularity of Healdsburg, a charming little town that’s cultivated an influx of high-quality wineries, country inns, and sophisticated restaurants in the past decade. Just to the south, the county’s largest city, Santa Rosa, is also enjoying renewed interest these days. Together, these two gay-friendly communities, about 75 miles north of San Francisco, make for a wonderful Wine Country getaway.
Activity in Healdsburg revolves around a vibrant, Spanish-influenced town plaza, which is shaded with an incongruous mix of palm and redwood trees. Healdsburg has a discernable gay and lesbian following - although the scene is less visible than in the Russian River resort of Guerneville, which lies just 20 miles southwest (convenient should you wish to hang out in a gay bar or stay at a predominantly gay resort).
Healdsburg invites a good walk along its dapper streets and past its enchanting boutiques. Because the town hasn’t become completely overrun by visitors (although it can get crowded on summer and fall weekends), most shopkeepers and restaurateurs are willing to spend a little more time chatting with visitors here than in more touristy parts of California. For a cultural break, visit the Healdsburg Museum, which contains local historical artifacts - including 8,000 original photographs - and is housed inside an imposing 1910 former library.
The small but lovely city of Santa Rosa anchors Sonoma County and is midway between Guerneville and the Napa Valley. Although low-keyed, it does offer a bit to see and do, and it also claims a visible GLBT community. Shoppers should investigate the city’s Historic Railroad Square, and garden gurus can check out the verdant Luther Burbank Home and Gardens, the fascinating estate of the renowned horticulturist.
Of course, wine-touring is a major reason to come here - some 80 local vineyards are open to the public. With so many wineries to choose from, it’s prudent to concentrate on one specific area each day, and limit tasting and touring to between three and five wineries.
In the greater Healdsburg area, there are several distinct winemaking areas, the most popular being Dry Creek Valley, Russian River Road, and Alexander Valley. In the latter area, one of the region’s star winemakers, Margaret Davenport (who’s also openly gay) oversees production at Passalacqua Vineyard & Winery, a comparatively small vineyard that makes highly sought Zinfandels, Chardonnays, and Cabernet Sauvignons. Seghesio Family Vineyards also produces superb Zinfandels, which have earned considerable acclaim - this respected yet very friendly operation has been producing wine in the northern Alexander Valley for more than a century.
Heading toward Guerneville and the Russian River, you’ll find several excellent wineries along Westside Road. Best bets include Gary Farrell, Porter Creek (amazing Pinot Noirs), and Hop Kiln Winery, which occupies a distinctive 19th-century ranch building. Other worthy wineries in the vicinity include Rodney Strong, popular for its Meritage, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon varietals; and Dry Creek Vineyard, which is as known for its magnolia- and redwood-studded grounds as for its award-winning Fume Blanc. Mauritson Wines is another star of Dry Creek Valley, producing excellent Zinfandels, Petite Syrahs, and Malbecs.
Alternatively, explore the wine-growing region south of the Russian River, just a short drive from Healdsburg and Santa Rosa. Fine vineyards in the towns of Forestville, Graton, and Windsor include Joseph Swan, La Crema, DeLoach, and Hanna. In Guerneville itself you can tour Korbel Champagne Cellars, which is headquartered in a century-old, creeper-covered brick building. An adjoining deli and microbrewery serves excellent salads and sandwiches (try the one with salami, Brie, tapenade, roasted peppers, and greens) on a tree-shaded deck.
One of the more distinctive ways to wine-hop in the area is on one of the biking tours offered by Getaway Adventures, which offers several itineraries in Sonoma and Napa, including a popular Healdsburg Sip ‘N Cycle ride that covers about 20 miles; the company also offers kayaking tours along the Russian River.
As is often the case in winemaking towns, Healdsburg is blessed with commendable restaurants, and meals generally cost a bit less than you might pay in San Francisco for comparable food. The slick Zin Restaurant and Wine Bar earns the devotion of foodies with tasty fare like Zinfandel-glazed beef short ribs with horseradish-mashed potatoes. An oasis of tasty and creative comfort food, Ravenous lives up to its mouthwatering name with robust burgers, tempting grills, and innovative veggie delights like roasted poblano pepper with potatoes, greens, and hominy and served with grilled-corn salsa.
Cyrus serves splendidly good French fare and might just be the most romantic dining room in town, while Bovolo, which is tucked into the back of Copperfield’s Bookstore, turns out stellar thin-crust pizzas with such inventive toppings as roasted squash, bacon, sage, and ricotta salata. You can enjoy a delicious meal at Costeaux French Bakery, from French toast with fresh raspberries and blueberries at breakfast to lunch specialties like seared ahi salad and Monte Cristo sandwiches. The major draw here are the exquisite desserts, such as dark-chocolate tortes and pumpkin cheesecake with a gingersnap crust. For planning the perfect picnic, head to Oakville Grocery, which stocks everything from gourmet sandwiches to a fine selection of cheeses and charcuterie.
Willi’s Seafood and Wine Bar serves tapas-size portions of such tasty fresh-fish fare as hamachi ceviche and clam-garlic flatbread topped with bacon and scallions. It’s part of the Stark restaurant group, which also includes the snazzy Stark’s Steakhouse in Santa Rosa’s lively Old Railroad Square - this is a fine spot to sample double-cut Colorado lamb chops with pomegranate glaze, or a dry-aged, bone-in rib-eye steak weighing in at 20 ounces. Around the corner, the natty Syrah Bistro serves well-crafted, inventive Wine Country victuals, such as tasso-ham-and-onion-stuffed quail with a black-eyed-pea and tomato ragout. For a light snack, drop by Flying Goat Coffee, which brews high-quality java - the kinds of rarified beans that elevate coffee-sipping to wine-tasting among connoisseurs.
After dinner, your options for nightlife are quite limited in these parts, although you can always make the 30-minute drive to Guerneville and check out the popular gay bars there, such as the rollicking Rainbow Cattle Company and the slick, pansexual Club Yamagata. Black Cat Bar & Grill, which is a 20-minute drive south of Santa Rosa, is interior Sonoma County’s closest thing to a gay bar. It’s lesbian-owned but popular with all kinds, and there’s live music most nights. The crowd is a mixed bag of ages and styles.
Healdsburg has several gay-friendly inns, including the luxurious Madrona Manor. With its striking mansard roof, pointed dormer windows, and sweeping wraparound porch, this imposing three-story 1881 mansion looks like the ideal setting for a Gothic horror movie. Many of the antiques that fill Madrona Manor’s 21 rooms are original to the house. One of the Wine Country’s finest Italianate Victorian houses, Camellia Inn is a first-rate small hotel. The inn and its two outbuildings are filled with Oriental rugs and eclectic antiques. More than 50 varieties of picture-perfect camellias lace the premises.
Arguably the most romantic place to stay in town, the Honor Mansion rolls out the red carpet to wine-loving gourmands with its truly magnificent suites and rooms. You might book the Tower Suite, fashioned out of a historic water tower and with a loft sitting area with a fireplace and a wet bar, or one of the four capacious Vineyard Suites, all with private patios that hold spa tubs for two. Lavish breakfasts, which you can enjoy on a picturesque sun deck in warm weather, complete the experience.
Technically in Guerneville but very close to the wineries on Westside Road, you’ll find the elegant, gay-owned, and reasonably priced Sonoma Orchid inn, which is set on a shaded hillside in the Russian River valley. You can choose from cozier, more affordable rooms in the 1906 original inn, or larger and more private suites in separate cottages. Breakfasts - which feature eggs laid by the inn’s own organically raised chickens – are the perfect start to your day in this region known for its acclaimed wineries, funky shopping, and scenic hikes beneath towering redwoods.
The Little Black Book:
Black Cat Bar & Grill 707-793-9480, blackcatbar.com
Bovolo 707-431-2962, bovolorestaurant.com
Camellia Inn 800-727-8182, camelliainn.com
Club Yamagata 707-824-1671, clubyamagata.com
Costeaux French Bakery 707-433-1913, costeaux.com
Cyrus 707-433-3311, cyrusrestaurant.com
Dry Creek Vineyard 800-864-WINE, drycreekvineyard.com
Flying Goat Coffee 707-575-1202, www.flyinggoatcoffee.com
Gary Farrell 707-473-2900, garyfarrellwines.com
Gay Russian River web page gayrussianriver.com
Getaway Adventures 800-499-2453, getawayadventures.com
Healdsburg Area Chamber of Commerce 707-433-6935, healdsburg.org
Honor Mansion 707-433-4277, honormansion.com
Hop Kiln 707-433-6491, hopkilnwinery.com
Joseph Swan Vineyards 707-573-3747, swanwinery.com
Korbel Champagne Cellars 707-887-2294, korbel.com
Madrona Manor 800-258-4003, madronamanor.com
Mauritson Vineyards 707-431-0804, mauritsonwines.com
Oakville Grocery 707-433-3200, oakvillegrocery.com
Passalacqua Vineyard & Winery 877-825-5547, passalacquawinery.com
Porter Creek Vineyards 707-433-6321, portercreekvineyards.com
Rainbow Cattle Company 707-869-0206, queersteer.com
Ravenous 707-431-1770
Rodney Strong Vineyards 707-431-1533, rodneystrong.com
Russian River Chamber of Commerce 707-869-9000, russianriver.com
Seghesio Family Vineyards 707-433-3579, seghesio.com
Sonoma County Tourism Bureau 800-576-6662, sonomacounty.com
Sonoma Orchid Inn 888-877-4466, sonomaorchidinn.com
Sonoma Valley Visitors Bureau 866-996-1090, sonomavalley.com
Stark’s Steakhouse 707-546-5100, starkssteakhouse.com
Syrah Bistro 707-568-4002, syrahbistro.com
Willi’s Seafood and Wine Bar 707-433-9191, williswinebar.net
Zin Restaurant and Wine Bar 707-473-0946, zinrestaurant.com
Andrew Collins is the author of Fodor’s Gay Guide to the USA and eight additional travel guides. He can be reached at OutofTown@qsyndicate.com.
WhistlePig and Alfa Romeo F1 Team Stake Wind Tunnel-Trialed Whiskey Is a Ryed You Don’t Want to Miss
SHOREHAM, VT (September 13, 2023) — WhistlePig Whiskey, the leaders in independent craft whiskey, and Alfa Romeo F1 Team Stake are waving the checkered flag on a legend-worthy release that’s taking whiskey to G-Force levels. The Limited Edition PiggyBack Legends Series: Alfa Romeo F1 Team Stake Barrel is a high Rye Whiskey selected by the Alfa Romeo F1 Team Stake drivers, with barrels trialed in their wind tunnel to ensure a thrilling taste in every sip.
The third iteration in WhistlePig’s Single Barrel PiggyBack Legends Series, the Alfa Romeo F1 Team Stake Barrel is bottled at 96.77 proof, a nod to Valtteri Bottas’ racing number, 77, and the precision of racing. Inspired by Zhou Guanyu, the first Chinese F1 driver, this Rye Whiskey is finished with lychee and oolong tea. Herbal and floral notes of the oolong tea complement the herbaceous notes of WhistlePig’s signature PiggyBack 100% Rye, rounded out with a juicy tropical fruit finish and a touch of spice.
Like Alfa Romeo F1 Team Stake’s signature C43 racing vehicles, trial barrels were tested in the team’s wind tunnel in Switzerland before hitting the track. Select barrels then endured varying levels of G-Forces at the WhistlePig farm and distillery for the finishing touch, accelerating the interaction between the whiskey and the wood, staying true to the physical nature of Formula 1.
“Partnering with WhistlePig has been a very exciting experience. Alfa Romeo F1 Team Stake is dedicated to being the best on the track, and the crew at WhistlePig is fearless in their pursuit to create the best whiskey out there,” said Valtteri Bottas, Alfa Romeo F1 Team Stake’s driver. “We’re really looking forward to fans tasting our custom Rye Whiskey and raising a glass to the rookies, veterans, legends and the exhilarating sport of F1.”
"Joining forces with WhistlePig to release a Single Barrel Rye Whiskey that represents my culture and team has been an honor,” said Zhou Guanyu, Alfa Romeo F1 Team Stake’s driver. “Formula 1 brings together fearless, thrill-seeking motorsports professionals, and WhistlePig has a shared passion for boundary-pushing innovation. Together, we’ve selected something alarmingly good for fans to enjoy this season when the cars are not on track.”
The Limited Edition Alfa Romeo F1 Team Stake Barrel will be available for purchase online starting around September 13 for $49.99 MSRP per 750ml bottle and sold in select stores across the U.S. Consumers can win VIP merchandise by scanning the QR code on the back of each bottle.
"We're taking our third Legends Series release on a ryed like never before,” said Meghan Ireland, WhistlePig Head Blender. "Our experiments with dynamic aging went full throttle during finishing trials at the Alfa Romeo F1 Team Stake wind tunnel, in turn inspiring new ways to expose barrels to G-forces back at the WhistlePig Farm. The herbal and floral notes of the lychee and tea barrel selected with the team create a new, podium-topping experience for PiggyBack Rye."
Fans and collectors have followed WhistlePig PiggyBack Legends Series, celebrating those who give 100% in the name of greatness, since its launch in March 2022 with Major League Baseball Hall of Famer, David Ortiz (“Big Papi”), followed by Country Music Duo Brothers Osborne in November 2022.
To learn more about WhistlePig Whiskey, visit whistlepigwhiskey.com. You can also check out WhistlePig Whiskey on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram.
About WhistlePig Whiskey
Located off the grid on a 500-acre Vermont farm, WhistlePig Whiskey is crafted by a new generation of whiskey distillers and blenders driven to reinvent and unlock the flavor of Rye whiskey. Through their rebellious pursuit of experimenting and pushing boundaries in the industry, WhistlePig has become the leading independent craft whiskey brand for innovation. WhistlePig is committed to becoming the best whiskey on and for the planet, starting with its locally sourced ingredients and sustainable supply chain and distilling process. For more information, head to whistlepigwhiskey.com.
Nurse Practitioner Ari Kravitz
When I started medical transition at 20 years old, it was very difficult to get the care I needed for hormone replacement therapy because there are very few providers trained in starting hormones for trans people, even though it’s very similar to the hormones that we prescribe to women in menopause or cisgender men with low testosterone.
I hope more providers get trained in LGBTQ+ healthcare, so they can support patients along their individual gender journey, and provide the info needed to make informed decisions about their body. I’ve personally seen my trans patients find hope and experience a better quality of life through hormone replacement therapy.
If you don’t have a primary care physician who specializes in LGBTQ+ care in your community, you may need to educate yourself (and your provider). But, before you seek such therapy, here are five things you should know!
- Monitor closely. At Spectrum Medical Care Center, we screen patients for certain risks before starting anyone on hormones. We frequently monitor patients in the first year to ensure there are no adverse reactions and lab results are within safe ranges. Follow-up care is also important to assess your comfort with the transition as well as the social impact and social support you’re experiencing.
- Some changes are permanent, some temporary. For transmasculine individuals going on testosterone, they’ll experience these permanent changes: deepened voice, clitoral enlargement (also known as bottom growth), more body, facial hair, and male pattern baldness. Reversible changes include cessation of menses, increased muscle mass and strength, body fat redistribution, and skin oiliness or acne. For those going on estrogen therapy, the most permanent change is breast growth. Feminizing hormone therapy can also cause atrophy (shrinkage) of the genitals and loss of erectile function that may not be reversible. Estrogen will thin body hair, soften the skin, can increase scalp hair, and decrease muscle mass and strength, all of which are reversible.
- You can’t pick and choose results. Unfortunately, you can’t pick and choose the physical changes you want, which may feel challenging. Some of my patients will say, ‘Okay, ‘I’ve seen the permanent changes I want, and I don’t want it to go any further,’ and so at that point, we stop therapy. Low-dose hormone therapy can slow down the rate of changes, allowing for a more gradual physical transition. We counsel patients in advance about the common changes, and it’s up to the individual as to when they’d like to scale back and determine whether some benefits are worth the potential risks.
- Be aware of risks. Like any medical treatment, there are potential risks involved. Some risks with testosterone therapy include increased red blood cell mass, acne, hypertension, sleep apnea, weight gain, and dyslipidemia (increases the chance of clogged arteries). Cardiovascular disease is likely increased with additional risk factors for testosterone and estrogen therapy. Transfeminine patients going on estrogen therapy may experience weight gain, thromboembolic disease (when a blood clot breaks off and blocks another blood vessel), and a high level of triglycerides in the blood.
Descanso Resort swimming pool and lounge area
Descanso Resort, Palm Springs' premier destination for gay men, just received Tripadvisor's highest honor, a Travelers' Choice "Best of the Best" award for 2023. Based on guests' reviews and ratings, fewer than 1% of Tripadvisor's 8 million listings around the world receive the coveted "Best of the Best" designation. Descanso ranked 12th in the top 25 small inns and hotels category in the United States. Quite an accomplishment!
Open less than two years, Descanso Resort offers gay men a relaxing and luxurious boutique hotel experience just minutes away from Palm Springs' buzziest restaurants, nightclubs, and shopping. Descanso has quickly established itself as a top destination for sophisticated gay travelers, earning hundreds of 5-star guest reviews and consistently ranking in Trapadvisor's top positions alongside brother properties Santiago Resort and Twin Palms Resort.
"Our entire team is honored to be named Best of the Best. To be the only gay men's resort recognized in the Top 1% is incredibly humbling," said Kent Taylor, General Manager at Descanso. "We appreciate Tripadvisor and we're grateful to all our guests who gave us such high marks and reviews to help us reach this achievement."
“Ranking among the Best of the Best demonstrates that you have provided exemplary experiences to those who maZer most: your guests,” said John Boris, Chief Growth Officer at Tripadvisor. “With changing expectations, continued labor shortages, and rising costs, this is no easy feat, and I am con6nually impressed with the hospitality industry’s resilience and ability to adapt.”
Santiago Resort was once again honored by Tripadvisor with a 2023 Travelers’ Choice award, placing it among the top 10% of travelers’ top reviewed des6na6ons. Twin Palms will become eligible for ranking in 2024.
Check out all the reviews, and discover more about Descanso Resort on Tripadvisor here. We have an excellent library of resort imagery available to accompany editorial and additional resources on our press page. Please contact Descanso Resort’s General Manager, Kent Taylor, at kent@descansoresort.com for further information.
About Descanso Resort
Inspired by Palm Springs’ history as a des6na6on for Hollywood stars to unwind in privacy, Descanso offers guests a casual yet modern take on the legendary style of that 6me. Created by the same hospitality team that revitalized Palm Springs’ much-loved San6ago Resort and recently launched the all-new Twin Palms Resort, the Descanso property opened in 2022 featuring 15 spacious guest rooms with custom-designed furniture, dreamy King-size beds, and luxe details. Ameni6es include continental breakfast, poolside lunch, welcome snack basket, and lots of special touches. For guests who need to stay connected, the entire property is equipped with blazing-fast Wi-Fi. Mul6-speed bikes are available for exploring the surrounding midcentury neighborhoods and public art installations. Like the Hollywood stars before them, guests at Descanso are encouraged to unwind, relax, and rest in style.
About Tripadvisor
Travelers across the globe use the Tripadvisor site and app to discover where to stay, what to do and where to eat based on guidance from those who have been there before. With more than 1 billion reviews and opinions of nearly 8 million businesses, travelers turn to Tripadvisor to find deals on accommodations, book experiences, reserve tables at delicious restaurants and discover great places nearby.